The Making of an Improbable Global Market: Coffee, 1808–50

Saturday, January 9, 2027: 4:10 PM
Grand Ballroom B (Sheraton New Orleans)
Christian Robles-Baez, Stanford University
This paper traces how coffee became a global mass commodity by examining the early Brazil–U.S. trade between 1808 and 1850. Although coffee has received significant scholarly attention, the contingent, supply-led dynamics that transformed it from a luxury good into a staple remain understudied, as do the mechanisms that broadened demand and enabled its mass adoption. Through a multi-scalar, transnational analysis grounded in new and extensive empirical evidence, I show how local practices and knowledge shaped a speculative strategy in Brazil that ultimately succeeded in constructing one of the most enduring global markets of the modern era. The paper not only offers a detailed historical account of coffee’s emergence as a mass commodity but also sheds light on the parallel rise of large-scale trade as a defining feature of global capitalism and the infrastructures that sustain it.

I argue that rather than responding to preexisting demand, Brazil’s dramatic expansion of coffee production in the 1810s and 1820s constituted a supply-side gamble. Between 1821 and 1849, U.S. coffee prices fell by nearly 80%, enabling the beverage’s diffusion across class and racial boundaries. This expansion depended not only on the labor of enslaved and Indigenous people but also on their knowledge of the environmental and their practical skills. It also relied on mule trains that navigated fragile and dangerous road networks—systems often dismissed as “primitive” but in fact essential to early global trade. As prices declined, coffee became accessible to the most marginalized groups in the U.S., including enslaved and working-class populations. Its unique combination of prestige and affordability among caffeinated beverages allowed it to outcompete rival beverages such as tea and yerba mate, bolstered by elite and state support.

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