The advent of manufactured clothing saw the quick demise of dress-making as a profession. In 1890, 11% of the working female population were described as "dressmakers" in the Census. By 1900, the number had fallen to 9.2%, and halved in each census thereafter until it reached 1.3% in 1940.
The reasons for this decline are contested and not entirely clear. Some argue that multiple "systems" appeared in the market, which converted the art of dressmaking into a repeatable and efficient science of garment production.
Although scientific processes of pattern drafting greatly influenced clothing production and eliminated the need for custom dressmaking in early 20th century, which then allegedly disempowered women as a result, this presentation will contend that the appearance of scientific systems of clothing creation had a positive, empowering effect for many women seeking to support themselves and their families.
One such system was the Keister's Ladies' Tailoring System. The system, and its associated colleges, created an extensive interconnected and successful network of women in the Midwest and throughout the United States. The majority of the 200+ schools were located in Kansas, Nebraska and Missouri, and several schools survived into the 1950's.
Analysis of newspapers discloses a wealth of articles, advertisements, reports of openings, fires, managerial visitations, and closings. Social columns frequently mention Keister schools in the context of weddings, school attendance, and obituaries.
Using these sources, one can begin to weave together a story about the lives and businesses of the Keister schools, their owners and students. Through rigorous genealogical research, one can find living descendants of the owners and students of the Keister schools, who generously shared stories of their grandmothers, mothers, and aunts, as well as many surviving artifacts.
Using the combined results of this multi-faceted research, four key questions can be answered.
1) What were the origins and key features of the Keister system?
2) Who operated the schools that taught the Keister system?
3) Who came to learn what was then, essentially, a novel and unconventional method to create clothing?
4) How did the owners and entrepreneurs making a business involving the Keister method adapt and survive in changing socio-economic times?
I conclude from my research that the Keister's Ladies' Tailoring Colleges created empowered networks of women. This network of over 300 individually owned schools taught thousands of students. Those students would go on to become school owners themselves, high school or college teachers, professional dressmakers, clothing designers for factories, or alteration workers in local department stores.
The poster presenting this research will show the background of the problem, the methodology I used to investigate the topic and the data collected. I shall also tell the stories of the people involved through photographs as well as through the display of artifacts of the school.