Fashion Fracas: Gender and Clothing in Modern Transnational Southeast Asian Colonialism, Nationalism, and Revolution

AHA Session 43
Thursday, January 6, 2022: 3:30 PM-5:00 PM
Preservation Hall, Studio 3 (New Orleans Marriott, 2nd Floor)
Chair:
JoAnn LoSavio, Washington State University, Vancouver

Session Abstract

This collection of research reveals the roles of clothing as vectors of colonialism, nationalism, and revolution in modern Southeast Asia, and how sartorial modes were transnational pathways in the service of diverse agents, the powerful and the powerless, the state and its citizens. Fashion reified gendered expectations, and notions of femininity and masculinity -- and challenged them. The panelists' research spans the geographic and chronological breadth of Southeast Asia, from Indochina under French colonialism (Jacobsen) to Thailand (Thepboriruk, LoSavio) and Burma (LoSavio) in the post-colonial mid-twentieth century to Myanmar in the throes of political upheaval in the present (Loring). Jacobsen's paper, "Miniskirts, Morality, and Modernity: The Role of Fashion in Khmer Identity to 1975," examines Khmer womens' negotiations with the French colonial and post-colonial Cambodian state through the sartorial medium. Likewise, LoSavio's presentation, "Transnational Traditionalism, Modernity, & Tourism: Womanhood in Postcolonial Burma & Thailand, 1950-1979," examines the vision of the state; this presentation compares the ways in which fashion and tourism in Burma and Thailand were circulated transnationally to develop both a domestic and international image of modern Burmese and Thai national identity. Thepboriruk's presentation, "Dressing the Thai Sisters: Constructing the Modern Thai Woman, 19th century – present," illustrates the ways in which sartorial nation building has asymmetrically burdened Thai women and shows how Thainess as a construct has been gendered since its inception. Loring connects this sartorial past to the present with her presentation, "Fashion as Protest: Costumes, Cosplay, and Breaking Taboos in Myanmar’s 2021 Pro-Democracy Demonstrations." Her work examines the role of fashion as a form of political resistance in the most recent 2021 Myanmar coup. Collectively, these works examine the ways in which the policing of citizens' and womens' bodies and self-presentation was normalized for the sake of the nation and helped embed patriotism and nationalism into Southeast Asian popular culture.
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