From Pattern to Pate: An Examination of Early Modern Embroidered English Head-Coverings and Their Sources

Needlework and embroidery were pervasive activities during the early modern era in England (and elsewhere). This skill was used to embellish a vast number of items of clothing and furnishings in all socio-economic levels, including the ubiquitous head coverings: the cap for men and the coif for women. These items were, at their most basic, constructed from rough homespun linen to the finest and sheerest batiste, and could be very plain or intricately decorated with silk, gold, lace, spangles, and pulled and drawn whitework. At the most extreme end, they were blatant status symbols of wealth and power, just as an Hermes scarf would be today.

The patterns for these designs were an important part of the chain of production. In fact, a key source for many patterns included the manuscripts written by Thomas Trevelyan in the early 17th century. He was a draughtsman who created a number of patterns for decorative arts, including patterns specific to embroidery and, especially, embroidered caps. We will examine these patterns, show how they were utilized in needlework, and discuss the importance of caps and coifs as an item of clothing at this time.