Splendor on a Schooner: Textile Adornment of the Gilded Age

The purpose of this study is to place information regarding Gilded Age luxury yachts and their interiors in an historical and social context.  A significant question concerns the manner in which American luxury yacht interiors during the years 1870-1920 demonstrated social status through the expressed use of textiles. This study examines the extent to which yacht owners practiced conspicuous consumption by insuring that the interiors of their yachts conformed to the same level of opulence as their homes. 

The answer to this question lies partially in technological advances in the maritime and textile industries that affected changes in the design of yachts and residential interiors.  Another component is the rise of consumerism and the increasing use of property, real estate and luxury goods as a demonstration of social status.  In addition, this study addresses the social concept of luxury consumerism and its role in the development of socio-economic classes in the United States. Extravagant lifestyles, opulent surroundings and grand entertainment through the use of multiple homes, carriages, haute couture apparel, transatlantic travel and the latest leisure diversions were typical of this society.    

One expression of social status was defined by the accumulation of paraphernalia and how it equated to the possessions of the European aristocracy.  Wealth and status within society were communicated through the accumulation of material goods, including textiles and interior furnishings.  Specific to this study is how textiles were used on luxury yachts, a relatively new diversion for wealthy society in the Gilded Age.

The study encompasses the three major eras of yacht design: 1) sail, 2) transition from sail to steam/diesel and 3) steam/diesel.   Eight luxury yachts that encompassed the three design eras were investigated and analyzed. The findings were compared with the interior designs of the era and the homes of the yacht owners.  The specific areas that were compared were the residential parlour and the main saloon, which was the equivalent living space aboard a luxury yacht. These rooms were used by their owners and social guests for the same intent and purposes.

Following identification, textile consistencies, themes, patterns and meanings found in home and yacht interiors were examined using the Matinez grid for photographic analysis.  This photographic data grid format is used to identify and analyze the content of historic images in a systematic manner.  Textile data, obtained from photographs of yacht main saloons and home parlours, was collected and evaluated. This data permitted comparisons to be drawn between the textiles employed in luxury yachts and those used for residential parlours.

The results show that wealthy Americans of the Gilded Age consistently employed textiles as an expression of social status in both the main saloons of their luxury yachts and the parlors of their homes.  Significantly, a maritime environment did not dictate a difference in textile use, and the luxury yacht was clearly an extension of the social status, prestige, and wealth that was first demonstrated by the residential property of the owners.